The PR Queen

Last year, Karla Otto stepped away from the eponymous PR firm she founded in 1982 and managed for over 40 years. We meet each other on a sunny November day in Venice, where she’s finishing the renovations of her new apartment overlooking the Giudecca Canal: The luscious background she chose to inaugurate a new chapter in her life. Venice, she says, always feels like a holiday. She agreed to take Alessandro and me on a stroll to show us her favorite spots nearby, book her first rowing lesson, and have a gianduiotto ice cream at Nico’s. But before we start, Karla Otto wants to test which accessories go best with her outfit: Does she look better with or without the tiny silk scarf? With or without sunglasses? After a couple of minutes, she decides: Better with. We leave the Accademia bridge behind and start a lazy walk towards the Zattere promenade.

Caterina Capelli

Why did you move to Venice?

Karla Otto

I'm not here all the time. I bought this house to spend some time here, a few months during the year. I love Venice beyond measure.

Caterina Capelli

I assume you already had a relationship with Venice?

Karla Otto

Sure. I used to come all the time. I always visited when I lived in Milan, but also afterward. Of course, how could you not like Venice?

Caterina Capelli

I'm in love with Venice, too.

Karla Otto

I used to stay in Milan. Then London. Today, I live between Venice and St. Moritz.

Caterina Capelli

And what do you usually do when you're here?

Karla Otto

Wherever I am, I do the same things. I make the same phone calls and watch the same movies; I'm just in a different environment, a different atmosphere. Right? But there’s something that connects everything.

Caterina Capelli

What is it?

Karla Otto

I really like places with water. Here, I live on the Giudecca Canal.

We proceed up and down bridges and calli — the narrow Venetian streets — until we reach the Guggenheim’s entrance. Karla Otto stops: she feels like going in. In the garden, I notice beautiful marble benches by artist Barbara Kruger. Should we sit down for a moment? I dare to ask. But Karla doesn't want to sit down. She walks past me towards the locker room. She noticed that the built-in cabinets in the museum's reception form an interesting geometric pattern, with their alternating shades ranging from white to blue. Alessandro is reluctant: The light isn’t ideal, he says, for taking photos. Nevermind. Karla Otto has already entered, and she looks amused. She tells Alessandro that he must be discreet — a lot of visitors are using the hall, and we don’t want to disturb them. Only take a few snapshots! We return to the courtyard. Looking up, Karla Otto seems impressed by the chimneys’ silhouettes: “Venice’s skyline.” She wants a picture with this background, she says. After spotting a beautiful sculpture she strikes a pose beside it. “Do you want to shoot a detail before we go — with the rings and the sculpture?” she asks Alessandro.

Caterina Capelli

Don’t pose. We should make it look natural.

Karla Otto

Natural, yes. But not too much.

Caterina Capelli

I love your rings. Where are they from?

Karla Otto

This one is by Cindy Sherman, and the other one here is by Catherine Opie. They collaborated with my friend Liz Swig, who makes artist jewelry. They’re so beautiful.

Leaving the Guggenheim behind, we head towards a hidden spot I’ve never visited before. It’s a quiet campetto with a tiny, tree-lined square with a large, lush flower bed nestled among the houses. Karla Otto walks very fast: She has the so-called ‘Venetian pace.’ We keep walking towards Punta della Dogana, and pause for a couple of minutes in front of the Salute Church, a beautiful monument that commemorates the end of the plague.

Caterina Capelli

How do you usually move here in Venice?

Karla Otto

I walk.

Caterina Capelli

That’s perfect for staying in shape. When did you first come here?

Karla Otto

It was in the 70s. Venice was the first stop of my trip to Asia. I was 19. My first impression was that it was incredible. By the way, I've just visited the exhibition here, at the Pinault Foundation. It's worth seeing.

Caterina Capelli

Have you visited the Arte Povera exhibition at the Bourse de Commerce?

Karla Otto

Not yet. I was in London during the opening. And when I returned to Paris, I had so many things to do. And then I was busy with the fair, Art Basel. But I go to Paris very often.

Caterina Capelli

Aren’t you tired of traveling all the time?

Karla Otto

I’m not always on the move.

We stop on the pier. A gondola is approaching, with a dozen people aboard.

Karla Otto

Let’s wait for the gondola! It’s right there. I love taking [gondolas] to cross the Canal Grande. It’s a minute of wonder. Don’t you feel like you're constantly on holiday when you’re here?

Our walk continues towards the Zattere, alongside the Giudecca Canal, until we come across the neighborhood’s rowing club, Bucintoro. A group of senior rowers is lowering a traditional “mascareta” into the water. Karla Otto looks fascinated. She stops to arrange her first lesson with an instructor, Angelo. “Angelo is the number one!” some students shout at us.

Caterina Capelli

This is such a nice walk.

Karla Otto

It is. Isn’t it? Look, I live right here, this is my balcony. It’s like living on a boat. If you want, we could go upstairs for a couple of minutes.

So we enter the building and go upstairs. It’s early in the afternoon, and her living room is bathed in sunshine. Karla Otto offers us tea, a Chinese oolong blend. I sit on one of her three sofas, and we continue to chat.

Caterina Capelli

I’ve heard that you lived in Japan.

Karla Otto

Yes, I was studying Japanese at university.

Caterina Capelli

So your studies don’t have anything to do with fashion.

Karla Otto

Nope. While I was studying, I was asked to model on a couple of occasions. That’s how I entered the fashion world.

Caterina Capelli

And how did you end up in the PR world?

Karla Otto

So, first, I worked as a model in Japan, then they sent me to Milan and Paris. I then took a gap year and took a trip like the one I had after high school. I went back to Asia for a little less than a year. When I came back [to Europe], I met Elio Fiorucci, and he offered me to manage his brand’s foreign PR. It was 1980. I met him at the Torre di Pisa, one of my favorite restaurants in Milan.

Caterina Capelli

What did he tell you?

Karla Otto

We chatted the whole night. By the end he said: “I would really like you to work for me.”

Caterina Capelli

How defined was the PR role in the 80s?

Karla Otto

It already existed. Some were doing it but they were very few. And they didn’t have any training because there wasn’t a fashion PR school. Another skill involved was that you had to speak different languages. In those days, there weren't many people who had experience with fashion. But I did. Having been a model, I had already met designers, photographers, stylists, newspaper people, etc.

Caterina Capelli

Fiorucci was coming up with pretty crazy ideas in those years. For example, the performance with Alessandro Mendini’s architectural clothing.

Karla Otto

It was wonderful. I was already a fan of his collections. When I met him, and he asked me to work for him, I was like “Certoooo!” Then I asked myself: should I continue modeling? The answer was no. I was back from my gap year and felt ready to start over. I had to think about what to do next.

Caterina Capelli

What made you think this job suited you?

Karla Otto

[I accepted] just because I loved Fiorucci’s world. It was super interesting: at the time, they worked with Oliviero Toscani, Sottsass, and Mendini. In 1983, Keith Haring came to Milan to decorate the whole Galleria Passarella shop. And before that, in the 70s, Fiorucci had this store in via Torino — just imagine, it was 1975, 1976 — where, in addition to the shop selling the collections, there was a vegetarian restaurant and also a vintage store. It was genius.

Caterina Capelli

You’ve always had huge clients, like Prada and Jil Sander. Of all the journeys you pursued with your clients, is there one you are particularly proud of?

Karla Otto

I have to say, Prada has always been a favorite. Because she was very special. And I loved the collections so much. Let’s say that my heart was there.

Caterina Capelli

Have you ever considered staying at Prada?

Karla Otto

I already had the Milan office, the Paris office, and the London one, too. They asked me [to stay], obviously. They waited three years for me to decide, but then I chose not to leave what I had created up to that point. I didn’t want to leave my other clients — who were amazing, too. It was a tough decision for me, mostly because I had this great connection with Miuccia.

Caterina Capelli

The PR job is essentially based on personal relationships, which requires meeting a lot of people. How was your social life outside your job?

Karla Otto

To be honest, for the many years I worked in fashion, I can say that 95% of my friendships and connections were people from the same field. I didn't need to go around in a daze to meet [other] people...I never felt like I needed to find other contacts. You know, we spoke the same language, we shared the same interests. Everything [revolved] around aesthetics, be it in fashion, design, or art.

Caterina Capelli

What do you mean?

Karla Otto

I mean that people who have creative jobs usually have a high aesthetic sensitivity. That’s nice. That’s inspiring.

Caterina Capelli

Are you still able to ‘switch off’ when all your friends are also those you work with?

Karla Otto

The line [between private and professional life] was completely blurred. But it never bothered me because I considered [my life] as a whole. In fact, it was beautiful: instead of complaining about work, I loved going to the office. It was exciting, because I always had appointments with very special people.

Caterina Capelli

Have you ever had a burnout?

Karla Otto

No.

Caterina Capelli

Really?

Karla Otto

Never. And it was intense. In the end, I had 8 offices in six countries, all opened by myself: Milan, Paris, London, New York, Los Angeles, Hong Kong, Shanghai, and Beijing. I used to manage 380 employees. I didn’t have a business partner, so everything weighed on my little shoulders.

Caterina Capelli

How did you make it?

Karla Otto

Mentally, I am very balanced.

Caterina Capelli

You were perfect for this job, clearly.

Karla Otto

Look, [Fiorucci] had seen this coming. He found the perfect job for me. And I wouldn't have looked for it because I didn't know what it was. I didn't know this role existed. I owe him so much.

Caterina Capelli

In my brief experience, I have only had a small taste of PR life during the annual Milan design weeks. Eight days of that are fun, but I also always end up with burnout. When it’s over, I need to sleep for two days straight. So I think it’s some kind of natural gift: Either you have it or you don’t.

Karla Otto

I’ve always loved this job, until the last day. I left my company, yes — but not because I didn't like it! I told myself: ‘After 40 years, I have to do other things in my life.’ Usually you have two options: Either you do the same thing until you die, or you quit at some point when you can still do something new.

Caterina Capelli

What would you like to do now?

Karla Otto

I don’t know yet. Right now, I’m super busy with many things I have to settle. Then I’ll see. It's not that I don’t want to work.

Caterina Capelli

I can imagine.

Karla Otto

I’m a workaholic.

Caterina Capelli

It looks like working is good for you.

Karla Otto

If you work with the right attitude, it’s good for everyone.

Caterina Capelli

Has your job changed over the years compared to when you started?

Karla Otto

I don’t do that anymore. But the PR job has constantly evolved. The big change happened with the internet. But it had already changed when the mobile phone arrived — Wow. Before that, I always had to go back to the office to take my messages — there were no emails, only faxes — and the process was very slow. Or, I had to find a phone outside, call the office, and ask if there was something urgent I needed to do, if any problem had emerged. It was so complicated. The mobile phone made everything faster. And with the internet…Well, it was great. Suddenly, we could do ten times what we used to do in one day.

Caterina Capelli

And I assume critical situations became easier to manage I guess.

Karla Otto

The problem was that afterward, everything became an emergency. When people know you can do it, nobody wants to wait anymore. Things are always evolving, that’s normal. I’ve never been the kind of person who thinks, ‘It was better in the past.’ Nope. We should embrace the process because the world is constantly evolving; nothing remains still. You must be very flexible in this job. If you’re not, you’ll have problems.

Caterina Capelli

Which other qualities should a good PR have?

Karla Otto

The most important thing is knowing your field in depth. In my field, it’s important to understand fashion. If you’re not able to recognize what’s good and what’s not, what’s copied and what’s original, you’ll never be an accepted partner for good journalists who understand, nor for great designers. You also need some psychological skills. You don’t face everyone the same way. Instead, you should consider each one’s specific personality and history. You need to be sensitive towards those you work with. You have to listen and understand them.

Caterina Capelli

Why do you think it’s mostly women in PR?

Karla Otto

It’s women or gay men. In my opinion, it’s always because of the high sensitivity that this job requires.

Caterina Capelli

That straight men don’t have…

Karla Otto

Only a few.

[She laughs]

Caterina Capelli

Are there any emerging designers you think are worth keeping an eye on?

Karla Otto

No, I’m not going to answer that. I’m not accurately following the fashion world anymore. To name names, you must truly, carefully study what a designer is doing, what they have done the previous season, etc. You have to visit showrooms and keep an eye on them for a few seasons. Otherwise, you risk giving superficial answers — which will be 100% wrong.